Flavors of the North End: Produce

From pushcarts to storefronts: how Italian immigrants turned Boston’s produce trade into family businesses.

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Italians Discover Boston’s Produce Markets

Italian immigrants to the North End were just a short walk to the chaotic bustle of Faneuil Hall and Haymarket areas. This was not the market in the village square like back home, most had never seen such an abundance of foods in one place. Literally tons of meats, fish, fruits and vegetables from the northeast and beyond arrived by rail, horse and boat. In the early 1900s there were nearly 400 wagons of produce shipped to Faneuil Hall every day, mostly sold by vendors with pushcarts. There were also street peddlers who bridged the gap between the large markets and the small neighborhood markets.

When Italians first ventured into Boston’s market area, and well into the 20th century, most produce vendors were Jewish. Over time, these Jewish vendors moved out of the North End but continued their trade, often apprenticing local Italian-Americans. As the vendors shifted to Italian ethnicity, many learned to conduct business in Yiddish, English and the Italian dialects. This transition to Italian produce vendors was complete by the 1960s, shortly before the closing of Faneuil Hall/Quincy Market. Italians still make up a portion of Boston’s Haymarket vendors, but today’s market is much more ethnically diverse.

Italian Demand Creates Supply

Within a couple of years the Italian vegetable markets have almost ceased to carry American vegetables and have come to deal almost exclusively in the vegetables common in the markets of Italy. The ordinary vegetables of this country, such as celery, tomatoes and cabbage, still find a place on the counters, but beside them are others entirely new and strange to the people of this part of the world…
- Boston Globe: September 28, 1901

Italian immigrants, like previous ethnic groups, found a mix of new and familiar produce at the larger markets. The various regional cuisines of Italy all heavily rely on vegetables, but also share a spirit of improvisation. Italy’s climate usually meant that there was always something in season, and cuisine was naturally paired with availability. When traditional ingredients couldn’t be found in the local markets, immigrants easily adapted to find a fresh alternative. However, markets tend to meet demand so as the Italian population grew, so did the availability of familiar fruits and vegetables.

Italian Owned Produce Markets

Among the vegetables are greens, like endive, green and red kale and “finoche” or ennis [anise], like our celery, to be eaten with dressing as a salad…Among the fruits imported by Italians are small, light green prickly pears from California and tamarinds, not yet in season.
- Boston Globe: June 24, 1923

Once Italians began establishing neighborhood groceria and vegetable stores, they could cater to a more focused clientele. Weekends in the North End were packed with shoppers, many of them Italian-Americans from the suburbs, visiting the shops along Salem and Hanover Streets, or the vendors at Haymarket. Shopkeepers would stock seasonal Italian favorites like rapini (broccoli rabe) and artichokes. They would also provide special ingredients required for religious feasts, such as the fava beans, dried chickpeas and fresh fennel for Saint Joseph’s Day.

Pastene: A North End Success Story